The Summit Of Mera Peak

You may recall our adventurous mountaineering friend Claire Mackay from her previous climbing escapades in South America…well late last year Claire was back at it again, this time returning to Nepal for a summit attempt on Mera Peak. This part of the world holds a special place in Claire's heart, and we got the inside story from her on this remarkable location and the experience of climbing that region again.

Welcome Back

The familiar jingle of donkey bells and the clip-clopping of their hooves along the rugged stone paths welcome me back to Nepal. Nostalgia warms me as I start the eight-day hike into the Himalayas and what makes my fourth visit to beautiful Nepal. After a bumpy but thrilling helicopter ride to the famous Khumbu gateway, also known as the town of Lukla, the buzz of this vibrant culture quickly captures my senses. Between the hordes of expedition duffle bags littering the airport tarmac, or the persistent chat amongst the Sherpas and through their walkie-talkies, I have no doubt my epic adventure has well and truly begun.

This time around, I'd be attempting to climb the popular summit of Mera Peak, a 6,476-metre mountain in the heart of the Solukhumbu region of Nepal. I'd be joined by Pemba Sherpa, who was my trusted guide and an expert in the region. Mera Peak is classified as the highest hiking summit in Nepal as it's relatively non-technical, however, it still exposes you to some extreme climates and challenging altitudes. After successfully summiting Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas, I had hoped to attempt my first 7,000m peak, but after a loss of climbing momentum throughout the COVID period, Mera Peak seemed like the more suitable choice to help throw me back into the mountaineering world.

Valley view on the first day of hiking to the village of Paiya. (Image courtesy of Claire Mackay)

Time For Tea

To reach the base of Mera Peak, you can either come by foot or by helicopter. Flying to any base camp at altitude is never encouraged as it jeopardises the natural and necessary acclimatisation process your body needs to go through to adjust to increasing altitudes. My journey to the base was a seven-day hike from Lukla, which trailed over many mountain ridges and through valleys. This hike took us up a slow incline from 2,800-4,900m (with a lot of up and down in between). For an altitude enthusiast, the apprehension of a gradual seven-day hike can be a tedious and impatient process, but one which is made far more enjoyable by the overnight rests in Nepal's famous teahouses.

Packed and ready to leave Canberra airport (left), waiting at Kathmandu airport (centre), and freight donkeys on their way to Lukla (right). (Images courtesy of Thomas Briese & Claire Mackay)

The entrance into a small tea house dining room on our way to Panggom (left), basic toilet facilities (centre), and my Mountain Designs Escape Hike day pack all ready for another day of hiking to Ramailo Dada (right). (Images courtesy of Claire Mackay)

Teahouses, or mini accommodation lodges, are always a very welcome sight to an exhausted hiker at the end of the day. Often you can be hiking up to eight-hour days. It's a place to rest your head, dry your socks and enjoy a warm, hard-earned meal. The rooms are modest and lack luxuries, often with just a bed-like shelf with a thin mattress (and maybe a blanket if you're lucky). There's most likely a shared squatting toilet at the end of the hall. It's the teahouse communal dining rooms that never lack personality and make it worth it.

There's always an exciting buzz between coming and going trekkers who match story for story their adventures in the mountains. Those coming express their excitement for the climb to come, while those going share a different excitement - most commonly the yearning for a warm shower and clean clothes.

Go Time

The first five days of hiking were relatively straightforward, through thick forests and muddy paths with the occasional waterfall or creek crossing. With the heavy rainfall over the past years, you had to tread carefully over some unsteady landslide areas. These first days took us through the villages of Paiya, Panggom, Ramailo Dada, Chhatra Khola and we finally arrived at the little Township of Kothe. For those who have hiked to Everest Base Camp, Kothte gave a similar vibe to Namche Bazaar, which can be described as the hiker's hub of the Himalayas, with shops and coffee houses. Kothe, at 3,600m, was an exciting milestone for me, as we finally escaped the tree line and had entered the rugged, rocky sparseness of high-altitude terrain. It was here where I caught my first clear view of the snow-capped Himalayas and from there, the anticipation just bubbled away. 'This is why I'm here!' I kept thinking to myself as I saw those mighty mountains, silently luring me from the distance. I could even see the summit of Mera Peak, glimmering in the sun.

The colourful view of prayer flags as you reach the town of Kothe (left, right) and a local tea house on our hike back from the base of Mera Peak to Lukla (centre). (Images courtesy of Claire Mackay)

Fog engulfs the last of the tree line in Kothe (left), a selfie with a mischievous Sherpa child just out of Lukla (centre), and light snowfall on our way to Thaknak (right). (Images courtesy of Claire Mackay)

Trekking from Kothe to the next two villages, Thaknak then Khare, was challenging as some inhospitable weather was sweeping through the valley. A huge dumping of snow and chilling winds made our walk to the mountain's base town of Khare, 4,900m, an uncomfortable and exhausting one, with the majority of our view a frozen white out. It wasn't a day for leisurely walking and we aimed to get to our teahouse as quickly as possible. The snow from the storm took days to melt away. The poor weather was spiking nerves as accounts from higher up were of those attempting the summit needing to turn around due to waist deep snow.

Enjoying some beautiful weather on our way back to Thaknak from Khare (left), Kyashar Peak, a beautiful neighbouring mountain (centre), and Pemba Sherpa taking the lead (right). (Images courtesy of Pemba Sherpa & Claire Mackay)

The magnificent view of the summit of Kyashar, a major peak highlighted on the hike from Kothe to Thaknak. (Image courtesy of Claire Mackay)

Despite the cumbersome snow we were determined to use the next day, our scheduled rest day, to its full potential. Especially as we had an opportunistic break in the poor weather. To acclimatise as much as possible before going up the mountain, Pemba and I climbed a neighbouring ridge which reached an altitude of 5,200m. It was slippery going, but the views from the ridge summit were breathtaking and it was becoming very clear that we were in the heart of the Himalayas. It was a truly astounding view, with massive giants in every direction. We made our way down for a carb-rich lunch and spent the rest of the day packing for our push to High Camp the following day.

We woke at sunrise for what was going to be a massive day ahead. We fuelled ourselves on a big breakfast and said our goodbyes to the last teahouse faces we'd see before our summit push. As we were feeling strong, Pemba and I decided to persevere straight up to High Camp, bypassing Mera Peak Base Camp. High Camp is a phenomenal little camp, perched on a cliff top at 5,800m. It took a considerable effort to reach it. I felt a small sense of doubt and anxiety by how gruelling this climb was, as I had felt so strong and confident the day before. The steep track and heavy snow slowed us down, but after a long day uphill we reached the small community of tents. High Camp has a spectacular view, where a vast span of mountain inclines meets one of the most complex and textured glaciers I'd ever seen. High Camp is certainly a place to watch your step, as there are many unforgiving cliff faces and deep crevices. I felt completely shattered from the climb so after forcing in whatever food I could stomach and one last gear check, it was time for bed. By 6 pm, the camp was completely silent as hikers tried to get as much sleep as possible before the 2 am summit departure.

The view of some neighbouring peaks from the route up to Mera Peak High Camp (left), selfie with Pemba Sherpa (centre), and Pemba Sherpa climbing an incline (right). (Images courtesy of Claire Mackay)

The route to Mera Peak High Camp from Khare (left, centre) and the familiar sight of the yellow tents perched in the snow (right). (Images courtesy of Claire Mackay)

Summiting Mera Peak

After a very broken and restless sleep, the much-anticipated sound of the alarm announced the start of the most important day of the expedition - summit day. After a few minutes of mentally wrestling with myself to leave the warmth of my sleeping bag, it is time to make a move. It's cold and dark and I reluctantly change into my summit outfit while I try not to knock the ice onto myself from the roof tent. It's easy to start questioning why I put myself through such physical extremes. But this is the exact point where you make a choice: let your mindset become a problem, or let it fuel you and carry you to the top of the mountain.

For this climb, I was using the Mountain Designs Pro-Elite expedition range to keep me warm at almost 7,000m. After gearing up with boots, a harness and crampons, and an unappealing breakfast of bland porridge, we set out for our summit push. In the dark we followed the light stream from our head torches. The ocean of stars above confirmed that we had clear weather which was a huge bonus, and the silhouette of the neighbouring peaks framed the scene perfectly. 'One foot in front of the other…one foot in front of the other,' rings in my head as I try not to let the harsh chill of dawn wear me down, until the first yellow hews of sunrise start to trickle over the mountain tops on the horizon. Finally, daybreak is upon us and a refreshing wave of positivity warms us. There is something so reassuring about sunrise in the mountains.

In-tent selfie at 3am whilst preparing for our summit push to climb Mera Peak (left), day breaking over the Himalayan peaks after we had started our climb (centre) and feeling optimistic as the sunrise warmed us on our summit push (right). (Images courtesy of Pemba Sherpa & Claire Mackay)

We continued upwards and onwards. It was a tough climb because even though it was a sunny, clear day, there were strong winds pushing us around and knee-deep snow that we sank into continuously with every step. Even though the climb itself is not technical, there were still a few crevasses we needed to navigate over, always a nerve-wracking affair. We came to a steep section of the climb which we found easier. The deep snow had blown away and we could walk easier on the icy surface with our crampons.

Once we reached the top of this section, the summit of Mera Peak came into full view and it was a marvellous moment of achievement. Even though we weren't on the summit yet, spirits were peaking. Every mountaineer knows the exact moment where they know they're in for success and this was it for me! We pushed on for the last part of the climb. It was a steep, exposed ridge so we made sure we were roped up well and had our helmets on. Even a non-technical mountain has its dangers and so the right equipment is a must.

The last push up to the summit of Mera Peak (left, centre) and my Mountain Designs Tread Carbon hiking poles perched in the snow while I take a climbing break. (Images courtesy of Claire Mackay)

That last climb of the mountain was surprisingly easier than I'd thought it would be, boosted by adrenaline for the last push. The last few steps felt incredibly humbling, and I was filled with gratitude as our summit push became a reality. The view from Mera Peak summit was magnificent - every angle captures the Himalayan ranges perfectly, and you're even treated to view of five 8,000m peaks, including Makalu, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu and, the giant herself, Mount Everest! White-capped peaks in every direction are so mesmerising and after hours of gruelling physical endurance, I can't help but feel completely revitalised and at peace amongst them. I was so thankful that Nepal had blessed me with another successful expedition.

Celebrating the summit climb of Mera Peak (left), Pemba Sherpa on the return down (centre) and leaving Khare for lower altitudes after our successful climb (right). (Images courtesy of Claire Mackay)

To Be Respected, Not Conquered

These mountains are not here to be conquered, but to be respected for all their beauty, mightiness and cultural significance. They let us pass and sit with them for a time. It's what we learn in the mountains - patience, resilience, resourcefulness and simplicity - which help us to be better and stronger people in life.

The majesty of these mountains is to be respected – stunning views, including of Mt Everest and Lhotse, from the summit of Mera Peak. (Image courtesy of Claire Mackay)

Photo Credits

Images supplied by:

Claire Mackay

• Instagram @clairelouise.mackay

Pemba Sherpa